CRUISE TO MALAYSIAN EAST COAST ABANDONED
A SAILING FAILURE!! BEATEN BY MALACCA STRAITS SW MONSOON
The Malaysian east coast offshore islands of Tioman, Redang and Perhentian are beautiful, with much better coral than anything we have seen so far, with lovely coral gardens, many, many fish and excellent visibility. Alec has already been a number of times years ago on scuba diving trips when he was living here and was determined the Cherry should see visit. So we had to go there before setting off across the South China Sea to Borneo. That had always been the plan.
After our hull upgrade was very successfully completed in the boat yard in Phuket Bay, to our horror it became immediately apparent that the starboard engine had a major problem and was unusable, except on tick-over. Examination later by a mechanic diagnosed a failed saildrive bearing. We have no idea how it happened, as it was working normally when we went into the yard.
We returned to what has almost become our home base here in Telaga Harbour, Langkawi, knowing that we must bring forward the replacement of our old and very small 9hp Yanmar engines and should not proceed further without doing so.
By this time we should have had ample funds available from a house we have sold in South Africa, way back in March, but legal issues have delayed transfer until end of September. So we spent six very frustrating weeks trying to persuade our bank to give us a short term bridging loan. Initially they made very encouraging and positive statements, then endless (over 30!) emails, asking the same questions over and over again, then silence, followed eventually by refusal. We were however offered an immediate loan by a bridging finance company but at a daily rate of interest, which amount to 48.5% pa. No thank you!
By mid July, we realised we had reached the point of no return, that if we did not go immediately, it would be too late in the season to go all. For those with a geographical turn of mind, during the SW monsoon, the east Malaysian coast is sheltered by the mainland and in this season, from June to September, it is generally dry, with only light southerly winds, so it is the east coast high season. However on the west coast the prevailing wind is funnelled up the Malacca Straits, so that boats going south normally have wind directly on the nose, from the south east. In our ignorance, we had hoped that most winds would be south west, so that we had a chance of sailing upwind, but not so.
So we decided against all advice that we had to give it a try in the wrong season, with our one good but badly smoking engine and one almost unusable. So on 16th July we set off on the first stage to Penang, on a windless, hazy, overcast day and motored very comfortably to Pulau Payar, where we moored to a very large buoy which drifted under the boat in the current and kept us awake, gently banging against the hull. The second day there was light wind and we could sail for part of the way and timed our arrival in Penang with the south flowing current helping us, arriving just before nightfall.
We both love Penang with its vibrant Chinese and Indian atmosphere and wonderful cheap food halls. We spoilt ourselves one night, a long planned delayed celebration of Cherry's birthday by going to the E&O Hotel's weekly buffet, where you eat and drink as much as you like for $40. This is the second time we have indulged ourselves and it never disappoints. Another wonderful relaxed night of food and drink and both dressed up for the occasion, which is a rare treat, especially for Cherry.
We always take the boat into Tanjong Marina, right in the centre of Georgetown. However it is renowned for swell and surge and this time we felt the full force of it. We tied the boat with about a dozen lines to try to spread the load and reduce the stress on the boat, but after three days and two broken lines, we decided we had to move. We had had little sleep either, listening to the squeal of the ropes stressing. So we anchored nearby, opposite the Chinese Clan Jetties, where old wooden houses are supported on rickety concrete and timber piles. Many local fishing and cargo boats anchor there, served by a regular dinghy service taking workers and others to and from all day, so it is very convenient. Unfortunately we anchored behind and downwind of a large and extremely smelly wooden fishing boat and from that day onwards we were plagued with a mass of flies on the boat, much to our chagrin and distress, particularly Cherry attacked them in fury with her fly swot, killing many but it made little difference.
We had been lulled into a false sense of security by the winds so far but soon learnt that south of Penang the weather conditions are completely different, as one approaches the channel between Sumatra and mainland Malaysia The first day was easy, as we motored with the current in almost no wind to Pulau Rimau, just 12 miles away, under the huge Penang Bridge and past the foundations for the second bridge, under construction.
Following day we set off early and as soon as we left the shelter of the islands the wind built up to 15 knot winds directly on the nose, SE east. With the engines against the morning current we were making barely 1.5 knots, at which speed it is very difficult to steer, as there is not enough water passing over the rudders. We tried to tack but ended up almost where we had started! Our catamaran has too much windage and and with a draught of only 0.9m there is huge leeway, blowing us backwards, so tacking against wind directly ahead is always difficult and with current against, it is impossible.
So that first day we turned back to our anchorage to re-group, though we did have a lovely fast return sail the wrong way! The second day we set off much earlier, knowing that we would have to motor through it the best we could. We found we could make 1.5 kts against current and 2.5 knots with, so average 2 knots and 30 miles in a 15 hour very long day. We reached our planned but rather exposed anchor waypoint, just a shallow sand bank but the wind was still pumping as we anchored and it was an uncomfortable night for both of us. Lumut was the next target, 40 miles into a marina we hoped, but we could only make 30 miles again, so found a good quiet anchorage just north of the Lumut channel.
We planned to go into the marina the following morning on the south flowing tide, just 10 miles but as we approached the channel between Pangkor Island and Lumut, we were hit by 22 knot head winds and could barely make progress or even steer. We reckoned it would take 5 or 6 hours to do the last 8 miles. Cherry said this made no sense and that she had had enough!! She was right, we could not go all the way down to Singapore like this and further south it was likely to be worse, with the risk of 50 knot Sumatra winds at this time of year.
So we had a quick discussion and formulated Plan B, of which more later. We had a restful day, back at our anchorage, in fact an even better place a few miles further north, behind an island. Next morning we were off early and had a wonderful day sailing with a strong tail wind, returning all the way to Pulau Rimau in one day, 62 miles, arriving at dusk, about 10 minutes before it was totally dark.
We managed to get a very weak internet connection and found to our delight the very good news that deposit money has been released from the house sale, thanks to the generosity of the buyers. We immediately returned to Penang to print, sign and scan the legal documents and sailed back to Telaga to implement Plan B. The new engines have now been ordered (Beta 16s, with new saildrives and folding props) and we will now go down in NE monsoon in November which is the sensible time for all cruising sailors.
A SAILING FAILURE!! BEATEN BY MALACCA STRAITS SW MONSOON
The Malaysian east coast offshore islands of Tioman, Redang and Perhentian are beautiful, with much better coral than anything we have seen so far, with lovely coral gardens, many, many fish and excellent visibility. Alec has already been a number of times years ago on scuba diving trips when he was living here and was determined the Cherry should see visit. So we had to go there before setting off across the South China Sea to Borneo. That had always been the plan.
After our hull upgrade was very successfully completed in the boat yard in Phuket Bay, to our horror it became immediately apparent that the starboard engine had a major problem and was unusable, except on tick-over. Examination later by a mechanic diagnosed a failed saildrive bearing. We have no idea how it happened, as it was working normally when we went into the yard.
We returned to what has almost become our home base here in Telaga Harbour, Langkawi, knowing that we must bring forward the replacement of our old and very small 9hp Yanmar engines and should not proceed further without doing so.
By this time we should have had ample funds available from a house we have sold in South Africa, way back in March, but legal issues have delayed transfer until end of September. So we spent six very frustrating weeks trying to persuade our bank to give us a short term bridging loan. Initially they made very encouraging and positive statements, then endless (over 30!) emails, asking the same questions over and over again, then silence, followed eventually by refusal. We were however offered an immediate loan by a bridging finance company but at a daily rate of interest, which amount to 48.5% pa. No thank you!
By mid July, we realised we had reached the point of no return, that if we did not go immediately, it would be too late in the season to go all. For those with a geographical turn of mind, during the SW monsoon, the east Malaysian coast is sheltered by the mainland and in this season, from June to September, it is generally dry, with only light southerly winds, so it is the east coast high season. However on the west coast the prevailing wind is funnelled up the Malacca Straits, so that boats going south normally have wind directly on the nose, from the south east. In our ignorance, we had hoped that most winds would be south west, so that we had a chance of sailing upwind, but not so.
So we decided against all advice that we had to give it a try in the wrong season, with our one good but badly smoking engine and one almost unusable. So on 16th July we set off on the first stage to Penang, on a windless, hazy, overcast day and motored very comfortably to Pulau Payar, where we moored to a very large buoy which drifted under the boat in the current and kept us awake, gently banging against the hull. The second day there was light wind and we could sail for part of the way and timed our arrival in Penang with the south flowing current helping us, arriving just before nightfall.
We both love Penang with its vibrant Chinese and Indian atmosphere and wonderful cheap food halls. We spoilt ourselves one night, a long planned delayed celebration of Cherry's birthday by going to the E&O Hotel's weekly buffet, where you eat and drink as much as you like for $40. This is the second time we have indulged ourselves and it never disappoints. Another wonderful relaxed night of food and drink and both dressed up for the occasion, which is a rare treat, especially for Cherry.
We always take the boat into Tanjong Marina, right in the centre of Georgetown. However it is renowned for swell and surge and this time we felt the full force of it. We tied the boat with about a dozen lines to try to spread the load and reduce the stress on the boat, but after three days and two broken lines, we decided we had to move. We had had little sleep either, listening to the squeal of the ropes stressing. So we anchored nearby, opposite the Chinese Clan Jetties, where old wooden houses are supported on rickety concrete and timber piles. Many local fishing and cargo boats anchor there, served by a regular dinghy service taking workers and others to and from all day, so it is very convenient. Unfortunately we anchored behind and downwind of a large and extremely smelly wooden fishing boat and from that day onwards we were plagued with a mass of flies on the boat, much to our chagrin and distress, particularly Cherry attacked them in fury with her fly swot, killing many but it made little difference.
We had been lulled into a false sense of security by the winds so far but soon learnt that south of Penang the weather conditions are completely different, as one approaches the channel between Sumatra and mainland Malaysia The first day was easy, as we motored with the current in almost no wind to Pulau Rimau, just 12 miles away, under the huge Penang Bridge and past the foundations for the second bridge, under construction.
Following day we set off early and as soon as we left the shelter of the islands the wind built up to 15 knot winds directly on the nose, SE east. With the engines against the morning current we were making barely 1.5 knots, at which speed it is very difficult to steer, as there is not enough water passing over the rudders. We tried to tack but ended up almost where we had started! Our catamaran has too much windage and and with a draught of only 0.9m there is huge leeway, blowing us backwards, so tacking against wind directly ahead is always difficult and with current against, it is impossible.
So that first day we turned back to our anchorage to re-group, though we did have a lovely fast return sail the wrong way! The second day we set off much earlier, knowing that we would have to motor through it the best we could. We found we could make 1.5 kts against current and 2.5 knots with, so average 2 knots and 30 miles in a 15 hour very long day. We reached our planned but rather exposed anchor waypoint, just a shallow sand bank but the wind was still pumping as we anchored and it was an uncomfortable night for both of us. Lumut was the next target, 40 miles into a marina we hoped, but we could only make 30 miles again, so found a good quiet anchorage just north of the Lumut channel.
We planned to go into the marina the following morning on the south flowing tide, just 10 miles but as we approached the channel between Pangkor Island and Lumut, we were hit by 22 knot head winds and could barely make progress or even steer. We reckoned it would take 5 or 6 hours to do the last 8 miles. Cherry said this made no sense and that she had had enough!! She was right, we could not go all the way down to Singapore like this and further south it was likely to be worse, with the risk of 50 knot Sumatra winds at this time of year.
So we had a quick discussion and formulated Plan B, of which more later. We had a restful day, back at our anchorage, in fact an even better place a few miles further north, behind an island. Next morning we were off early and had a wonderful day sailing with a strong tail wind, returning all the way to Pulau Rimau in one day, 62 miles, arriving at dusk, about 10 minutes before it was totally dark.
We managed to get a very weak internet connection and found to our delight the very good news that deposit money has been released from the house sale, thanks to the generosity of the buyers. We immediately returned to Penang to print, sign and scan the legal documents and sailed back to Telaga to implement Plan B. The new engines have now been ordered (Beta 16s, with new saildrives and folding props) and we will now go down in NE monsoon in November which is the sensible time for all cruising sailors.